If I could really write you would be able to feel the slight chill of
the dawn offshore and see the fluttering crest of the opposing swell as
their rival paths collide. You would know it was the north coast of NSW
as you could see the barren points extend from sweeping fields and
thick bushland, tapering those swells into the ruler lines that we oh so
adore. If I could really write, you would see a man. A werewolf of a
man, riding tall and proud, riding fast and sleek, riding low and deep,
swerving at will. Whatever the wave asks, this man responds accordingly.
We got to jam on Chris Del Moro's rhythm for the weekend up in Byron
and it was one sweet groove.
Words by Stu McKerihan
Film and Edit - Andrew Gough
The Road Less Travelled from Andrew Gough on Vimeo.